Engine Art & Funcion (Finally)

Getting the motor to function as well as it looks has proved to be quite a challenge. Add the facts that I'm not a professional mechanic and find myself constrained by a tight budget. I must admit though, I am thrilled with the results.

So what were the culprits denying me this victory? It turned out there were several:

1. The stock wiring harness has shielding added for wires that connect from the PCM to the Distributorless Ignition System. On my harness, some of this was missing. In addition, I extended two of these sections, initially without shielding, because I relocated where the DIS was mounted. It was necessary to go back and rebuild this portion and add the shielding.
2. The main ground connection from the PCM passes through a single-pin connector. On previous testing, this ground circuit tested fine. Now it wasn't. The culprit turned out to be the pin on the male side of the connector was making intermittent contact. By cleaning & widening the end of the pin I was able to get a reliable ground connection. A new connector will be secured for the final installation.
3. When the motor was originally rebuilt I replaced the coolant temperature sensor with a new one. So this was one of the last sensors I got to when trying to resolve the running issues. It turned out that one of the two pins in the sensor failed - probably the last time I assembled the motor and reconnected the sensor to the harness. Fortunately I kept the original sensor which tested fine.

So at long last the motor runs well. It will still need hours of bench running so the new rings can seat and the computer can relearn its configuration settings, but it purrs like a kitten and roars like a lion.

Engine Art & Function (Partially)

Well as you know I've been focusing a lot of attention on turning this beautiful engine art into a working motor. With the stand, the clutch adapter plate, and engine wiring complete it should just be a matter of breaking in the motor a little. So I had hoped too.

It did run, just not as good as I wanted. First there were a series of CEL (Check Engine Light) codes to deal with. This meant isolating the cause for the codes and taking appropriate steps; sometimes requiring sensor replacement.

So here's the motor running once I reached the No CELs stage. If you listen carefully you will hear valve noise off and on. This still existed after I pulled the covers off and reset the valve clearances a second time. It started becoming apparent that something else was amiss. Keep in mind this is a used motor that someone did a partial rebuild/service to.

As I continued to test the motor under running conditions it continued to sound worse. I then decided it was necessary to tear it down again and dig into the details.

Right head after cleaning/lapping

Once I pulled the heads and started inspecting the valve assembly it started to get clearer:

• All exhaust valve seals were loose - these were OK when inspected years ago. They'll get all new seals.
• Most intake seals were dry-cracked - probably because the motor sat for several years before getting to this point. These seals will get replaced also.
• Valve seats needed cleaned up - especially the exhaust. All valves/seats will be lapped.
• Spark plugs were partially soaked - from blow-by of the exhaust seals. Two cylinders were worse than the others so those injectors will get tested. All were professionally cleaned before being installed.

Also inspected the pistons/cylinders in the block. There appears to be an excessive amount of oil in each cylinder. Even though some of it is due to loose exhaust valve seals, I don't think that can account for all of it. The pistons will get pulled and checked for stuck oil rings.

So I'd have to say at this point that I have partial function. I'll post back when it's all back together and hopefully have reached full function.